New approaches for UV-induced photodamage protection

Elka Touitou, Biana Godin

Research output: Contribution to journalReview article

9 Scopus citations

Abstract

This paper describes a dual approach for efficient protection from UV-induced skin damage: (1) use of a new generation of chemical sunscreens acting on the skin surface and lacking transdermal absorption followed by (2) use of ethosomes for enhanced dermal and intracellular delivery of free radical scavengers. The basic concept behind the design of Skin Non-Permeating SUNscreens (NPSUN) was to immo bilize UV absorbing moieties in the structure of a jojoba oil backbone. NPSUNs containing two or four methoxycinnamic UV absorbing groups (MC-NPSUNs) were synthesized and characterized. No permeation of MC-NPSUNs across the skin was observed in 24 hour in vitro permeation experiments either following application of neat compounds or after application of MC-NPSUNs formulated in o/w cream, in o/w cream or in jojoba oil. An additional valuable feature of NPSUNs is their high skin substantivity which could minimize the need for repetitive applications. Ethosomes, specially designed carriers for enhanced dermal and intracellular delivery, were used to improve uptake of alpha-tocopherol into the skin cells for prevention of malignant processes induced by solar radiation. The results show that alpha-tocopherol was efficiently delivered into the skin and across the cellular membranes from ethosomal systems. Impediment of sunscreen systemic absorption diminishes the potential of sunscreens to cause systemic adverse reactions, while the efficient delivery of alpha-tocopherol to the site of its action within the skin cells increases the agent's efficiency in inhibiting sun related carcinogenic processes.

Original languageEnglish (US)
Pages (from-to)139-147
Number of pages9
JournalJournal of Applied Cosmetology
Volume24
Issue number4
StatePublished - Oct 1 2006

Keywords

  • Alpha-tocopherol
  • Ethosomes
  • Jojoba derivatives
  • Skin photodamage
  • Sunscreens

ASJC Scopus subject areas

  • Dermatology

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